What does momme mean in silk?

Softly draping mulberry silk bed linen by Silk Couture
Silk Couture guide · Silk knowledge

What does momme mean in silk?

19, 22 or 25 momme – hardly any figure is mentioned as often when buying silk, and explained as rarely. Here you'll learn what the number means, why more momme isn't automatically better, and what really matters with silk: the fibre.

Key facts at a glance

  • Momme (mm) is the traditional unit of weight for silk – it measures how much silk is in the fabric, not how good it is.
  • 1 momme ≈ 4.34 g/m² – 19 momme weighs around 82 grams per square metre.
  • 19–25 momme is suitable for bed linen & pillowcases. Lighter qualities drape more fluidly and hug the body.
  • More isn't better: heavy silk becomes more structured and drapes less fluidly.
  • The fibre decides: continuous reeled silk from the middle of the cocoon, the highest raw silk grade and healthy mulberry leaves.
  • Silk Couture: 19 or 21 momme depending on the product – made exclusively from reeled silk.

The definition: a Japanese unit of weight

Momme (pronounced MOM-ee, abbreviated mm) comes from Japan and has been used for silk for centuries. It was originally defined by the weight of a bolt of silk: if a piece of silk fabric 100 yards long and 45 inches wide weighs exactly one pound, it has 1 momme.

Converting to the metric system is more practical: 1 momme equals roughly 4.34 grams per square metre. This lets you place any momme figure instantly:

19 mm

≈ 82 g/m² – light, fluid, especially supple and opaque.

21 mm

≈ 91 g/m² – a little more body, still drapes softly and hugs the body.

22 mm

≈ 95 g/m² – denser and heavier, with noticeably more structure.

25 mm

≈ 108 g/m² – very dense and heavy, feels more structured and drapes less fluidly.

Important: momme does not measure the thickness of the fabric but its weight – i.e. how much silk fibre was used. The number says nothing about the quality of that fibre.

Momme values at a glance

Momme Weight Character Typical use
6–12 mm 26–52 g/m² Gossamer-thin, partly sheer Chiffon, scarves, linings
16 mm ≈ 69 g/m² Light, fluid Blouses, scarves, light clothing
19 mm ≈ 82 g/m² Opaque, soft, very supple Bed linen, pillowcases, nightwear
21 mm ≈ 91 g/m² Soft drape, a little more body Bed linen & pillowcases
22 mm ≈ 95 g/m² Denser, heavier drape Bed linen & pillowcases
25 mm ≈ 108 g/m² Very dense, structured Heavy bed linen, dressing gowns
30 mm ≈ 130 g/m² Heavy, warming, little drape Heavy bedding, interiors

For bed linen and pillowcases, the rule of thumb is: don't buy below 19 momme. Thinner qualities can be see-through and are too light for everyday use. Reputable suppliers state the momme value openly. If it is missing altogether, that's a warning sign.

Why more momme isn't better

Many suppliers advertise ever higher momme numbers. But the fabric's behaviour changes with its weight: heavy silk holds its shape, feels more structured and drapes less fluidly. Lighter qualities, on the other hand, drape softly around the body and feel airier.

Softness doesn't depend on weight either. How smooth and supple silk feels is determined mainly by fibre quality, weave and finishing. A heavy silk made from mediocre fibre can feel stiffer than a lighter one made from first-class fibre.

Softly draping silk bed linen in 100% mulberry silk on a bed

That's why we deliberately work with 19 or 21 momme, depending on the product. These weights offer enough density for everyday use while keeping the supple, fluid drape that makes silk so special.

What really matters: the fibre

A silkworm spins its cocoon from a single thread that can be several hundred metres long. But not every part of the cocoon delivers the same quality:

Silkworm cocoons before reeling
The continuous thread is unwound from the middle part of these cocoons: reeled silk.
Outer layer

Loose, irregular threads the silkworm uses to anchor itself. Cannot be reeled – it is removed and at most spun into schappe or bourette silk.

Middle part

The continuous, even thread that is unwound in one piece: valuable reeled silk. It makes up most of the cocoon – and it's the only part we use.

Inner layer

Short, fine fibres right next to the pupa. Also cannot be reeled and can only be used as spun silk.

Fabrics made from reeled silk are smoother, glossier and more even than fabrics made from spun short fibres. The highest grade for raw silk is called 6A – it stands for particularly long, pure and even filaments.

Good silk starts with the mulberry tree

Harvesting fresh mulberry leaves for the silkworms

Silkworms eat nothing but mulberry leaves. Studies from silk research show that the nutrient content of the leaves affects how healthily the silkworms develop, how productive the cocoons are and how high the quality of the raw silk will be. And the quality of the leaves in turn depends on the soil the trees grow in.

Our silk comes from mulberry trees grown on nutrient-rich soils and is produced together with a small, traditional business we have worked with for years.

Checklist: how to recognise high-quality silk

  • Fibre: continuous reeled silk in 100% mulberry silk – no spun short fibres.
  • Raw silk quality: grades such as 6A indicate long, even filaments.
  • Weave: silk satin (satin weave) creates the smooth, glossy surface that is gentle on skin and hair. Read more in our guide Silk or satin.
  • Momme: 19–25 for bed linen – matched to the drape you want, not as high as possible.
  • Finishing: clean seams, high-quality closures and colourfast dyeing.
19 & 21 momme · pure reeled silk

Quality you feel every night

Our pillowcases and bed linen are made from 100% mulberry silk in 19 or 21 momme – from continuous reeled silk, together with a small, traditional business. For over 15 years.

View silk pillowcases Standard size 40×80 cm from €99

Momme vs. thread count: the key difference

For cotton bed linen, thread count is the usual measure of quality – it counts the threads per square inch or square centimetre. For silk, this number is misleading: silk threads are so fine that high thread counts are easy to reach without much silk in the fabric.

For silk, momme is therefore the more meaningful weight measure. But neither momme nor thread count tells you which part of the cocoon the fibre comes from – and that is exactly what determines shine, smoothness and suppleness.

Frequently asked questions about momme

What does momme mean in silk?

Momme (mm) is a traditional Japanese unit of weight for silk. One momme equals roughly 4.34 grams per square metre. The value tells you how much silk is in the fabric – not how good the silk is.

What momme should silk bed linen have?

19 to 25 momme is suitable for bed linen and pillowcases. Lighter qualities of around 19 to 22 momme drape more fluidly and hug the body, heavier ones feel more structured. The quality of the silk fibre matters more than the number.

Is higher momme always better?

No. More momme means more weight and density. The fabric becomes more structured and drapes less fluidly. How soft and smooth silk feels depends mainly on fibre quality, weave and finishing – not on weight.

Which is better: 22 or 25 momme?

It depends on the feel you want. 25 momme (approx. 108 g/m²) is heavier and more structured, 22 momme (approx. 95 g/m²) drapes a little more softly. If you want a light, fluid feel while you sleep, 19 to 22 momme is often the better choice. A high-quality fibre matters more than a higher number.

What momme is Silk Couture silk?

Silk Couture uses 19 or 21 momme depending on the product. These weights drape particularly fluidly and feel soft against the skin. We use only continuous reeled silk from the middle of the cocoon, produced together with a small, traditional business.

What is reeled silk?

Reeled silk is the continuous silk filament from the middle of the cocoon, unwound in one piece. It is the most valuable silk quality. The loose outer layer and the innermost layer of the cocoon only yield short fibres, which are spun into schappe or bourette silk.

Do mulberry leaves and soil affect silk quality?

Yes. Silkworms feed exclusively on mulberry leaves. Studies show that the nutrient content and quality of the leaves affect the silkworms' development, cocoon yield and raw silk quality. Leaf quality in turn depends heavily on the soil.

What does 6A mean for mulberry silk?

6A is the highest grade for raw silk. It stands for particularly long, even and pure silk filaments. Momme, by contrast, only describes how much silk is in the fabric.

What is the difference between momme and thread count?

Thread count counts threads per area and is used mainly for cotton. Momme measures the weight of silk per area and is the more meaningful measure for silk.

How do you convert momme to g/m²?

Multiply the momme value by 4.34 to get grams per square metre. 19 momme is about 82 g/m², 21 momme about 91 g/m², 22 momme about 95 g/m² and 25 momme about 108 g/m².

How do you pronounce momme?

Momme is pronounced MOM-ee and abbreviated as mm. The term comes from Japan.

100% mulberry silk

Feel the difference good silk makes

From pillowcases to complete bed linen sets: supple mulberry silk made from continuous reeled silk.

View silk bed linen sets Sets from €394